| Home Garden | |
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Pecans |
Cooperative Extension Service
The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences
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| Home Garden | |
|
Pecans |
Tom Crocker, Extension Horticulturist - Pecans, Paul Bertrand,
Extension Plant Pathologist
& HC Ellis, Extension Entomologist
Varieties
Site
Planting Trees
Caring for the Young Trees
Care of Bearing Trees
There are thousands of pecan trees surrounding urban and rural dwellings. These trees can enhance the environment by providing shade and additional income from the sale of nuts. Some of these trees are not profitable because of their susceptibility to disease, particularly scab. Many produce inferior nuts.
Most of Georgia is blessed with a marvelous climate for producing pecans. For many years, Georgia has been the No. 1 producer of improved pecans in the United States. Pecans are recommended for home planting in the Coastal Plain and Piedmont, but are not recommended for the north Georgia mountains. Here are some tips that should promote successful production.
The first consideration after you've decided to put in pecans is the choice of varieties. There are numerous pecan varieties from which to choose, but only a few are suitable for yard-tree planting. The primary reason is that many home gardeners will not be able to spray to control destructive diseases. Fortunately, there are scab-resistant varieties which produce high quality kernels.
The varieties recommended for yard-tree plantings are Stuart, Gloria Grande, and Curtis, Elliott and Sumner. To ensure good pollination, plant at least two varieties. This is especially important for areas with few surrounding pecan trees. In areas where pecans are common, pollination isn't usually a problem.
Tree site is very important because of the ultimate size the tree will reach. Plant the trees well away from the residence and other buildings. Perhaps the biggest obstacle to be avoided is overhead power lines.
Space the trees at least 60 to 80 feet apart so they will not crowd as they reach maturity. Crowding can cause misshapened trees and decreased production in shaded areas. Unlike commercial situations, yard-trees should be spaced far enough apart so they'll never need removing.
To get the best survival, plant freshly dug trees whose roots have been kept moist from digging to planting. If possible, plant trees the day they are received from the nursery. Many trees bought from mail order dealers or garden centers will have been out of the ground for several days. If these trees have been stored and handled properly, they should survive and grow. If your trees appear to have dried, soak them in water for several hours to freshen them prior to planting. Drying before planting and failing to supply adequate moisture for the first two years following transplanting are the major causes for death or very slow growth in young pecan trees.
Pecans by nature have long taproots and require a deep planting hole. It's not uncommon to need a hole at least three feet deep. The hole should be from 12 to 24 inches wide so that all side roots can be properly positioned as the hole is refilled. Never run roots around the hole; instead prune them at the edge of the hole.
Most soils need additional organic matter. Mix peat moss or well-composted organic matter thoroughly with the available topsoil used to fill the hole. Dig the hole deep enough so that the tree can be set at the same depth that it grew in the nursery. Then fill the hole in layers so that lateral roots arising from the taproot can be spread horizontally. Firm the soil in layers as you progressively fill the hole to soil surface level to prevent settling. Do not place fertilizer in the hole.
Use the subsoil removed from the hole to build a water-holding basin around the tree. This basin should be 24 to 36 inches across and six to 12 inches deep. Ideally, you want a reservoir that will hold 10 to 15 gallons of water at each watering.
Remove one-half of the top of the new tree to balance the top with the root system. This is essential for good survival.
Mulch trees with a six-inch layer of pine straw, leaves or old sawdust. This helps hold moisture and limits competition from grass and weeds.
| Quality of Pecan Varieties for Homeowners | ||||
| Varieties | Size | Kernel Quality | Scab Resistance | Productivity |
| Stuart | large | excellent | resistant | very good |
| Elliott | small | good | very resistant | very good |
| Curtis | small | excellent | very resistant | very good |
| Gloria Grande | large | excellent | resistant | very good |
| Sumner | large | excellent | resistant | very good |
The primary after-care chore for successfully growing pecan trees is to supply the trees' moisture needs for the first two or three years. The basic reason for this is that most young trees have lost a large percentage of their roots during digging and transplanting. This limited root system must be supplied regularly to meet the needs of the top. Apply 10 to 15 gallons of water at regular weekly intervals, either by rainfall or irrigation. This is one chore that must not be neglected.
Do not place fertilizer in the planting hole as it may injure roots. Young pecan trees do need a ready source of nutrients to promote rapid growth. For accurate determination of fertilizer and lime needs, take a soil sample prior to planting. If no soil test was made, use a general rate of about one pound 10-10-10 fertilizer distributed in a 25 sq. ft. area around the tree. Make this application immediately after planting and again in June or July. The following February, apply four pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter (measured one foot above soil surface). Do not place fertilizer within 12 inches of the trunk.
Young trees should make from two to four feet of terminal growth each year. Where growth is less, apply one pound of ammonium nitrate fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter in June or July. As a general recommendation, apply one pound zinc sulfate per tree for the first three years following planting. Spread the fertilizer and zinc sulfate in a circle around the tree outside of the planting hole.
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| Figure 1. A properly planted pecan tree. |
Fertilization is one of the most important practices for bearing trees. If the trees are to produce a good crop, terminal growth should be six inches each year. In the absence of a leaf analysis or soil test, broadcast four pounds of a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for each inch of trunk diameter (measure 4 1/2 feet above soil level). This fertilizer should be applied in mid- to late February. Zinc nutrition is especially important in pecan production. Zinc needs are best determined by analysis of leaf samples taken in late July or early August. Mailing kits and instructions for taking samples are available from your county Extension office. The leaf analysis report will tell you how much zinc to apply. In the absence of a leaf analysis, apply one pound of zinc sulfate to young trees and three to five pounds for large trees each year. A soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 assures the availability of essential nutrients. If the pH is too low or too high, uptake and use of nutrients is impaired. Apply lime as suggested in the soil test report to correct low pH.
Prevent nut loss by harvesting early. Harvesting the nuts as soon as they mature ensures better quality. One of the quickest ways to lose nut quality is to let them lay on wet ground. Harvest early and store nuts in a clean, dry place.
Acceptable insect control usually cannot be obtained without spraying trees. However, there are a few things homeowners can do which may help alleviate insect problems.
| Table 1 | |
| Insect | Remedy |
| Aphics & Mites | Wash leaves with high pressure hose sprayer. Wash as high as possible in tree. Repeat at least two times per week. Use of insecticidal soap may aid control. |
| Hickory Shuckworm | Blacklight traps may reduce populations of shuckworm moths. Traps should be suspended about one-half the height of the trees. Use one trap per four trees. Good sanitation is also important. Clean up and destroy all old shucks and debris. |
| Twig Girdlers | Pick up and burn girdled twigs and limbs. Many girdled twigs do not fall from the tree; remove as many of these as possible. |
| Fall Webworm | Remove and destroy webs when they are first noticed. |
| Pecan Weevil | Pick up and destroy infested nuts as they fall. Nuts should be picked up at least two time per week. If foliar sprays are not possible, spray tree trunks, crotches, bases of scaffold limbs and the soil underneath tree, from trunk to just beyond dripline, with carbaryl (Sevin). Use 1/4 lb. Active carbaryl (Sevin) per 10 gal. water per tree. Begin sprays when weevils start to emerge, normally the first week in August, and continue weekly sprays until emergence ceases. Eight to nine sprays may be required. |
If trees are planted in pasture areas, they'll need to be fenced in to prevent animals from feeding on them.
Diseases can severely limit pecan production. The major disease is pecan scab. As mentioned earlier, the best way to control scab is to plant scab-resistant varieties. On susceptible varieties pecan scab, in many cases, cannot be controlled without spraying. Sanitation, however, can almost always help reduce losses from scab and other minor diseases. Nearly all fruit and foliage diseases of pecans, including scab, overwinter on plant parts infected the year before. Complete removal and destruction of leaves and shucks during the winter can reduce carry-over of scab and other diseases and help in their control. Removal of limbs touching the ground promotes air movement under the tree which in turn helps reduce the leaf wetness necessary for disease infection. Spraying the lower limbs with a home garden sprayer will ensure disease control on these limbs. If you plan to spray, make the first application at bud swell and continue every 14-21 days to mid-August.
Squirrels are often a serious pest, especially if trees are located near a wooded area. Hunting in season can keep damage from the pest down. If it is necessary to kill them out of season, be sure to get a permit from the Georgia Department of Natural Resources.
No chemicals are currently legal for poisoning squirrels or birds. However, barriers and trapping do give you some protection from squirrels.
Barriers: Individual trees can be protected from squirrels by banding the trunk with a metal shield about 24 inches wide, encircling the trunk about five feet above ground. Slots on the metal, instead of holes, will allow the metal band to slip past the fastening spikes as the tree grows. Partially withdraw the spikes each year to prevent them from becoming embedded in the trunk.
Trapping: Live traps and size 1 1/2 leg hold traps will catch squirrels. Trapped animals can then be released in wooded areas.
Circular 744/Reprinted June, 2000
The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability.
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Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.
Gale A. Buchanan, Dean and Director